THE DHOWS – SAILING TO THE RHYTHM OF THE MONSOONS

Old Dhow Harbour. Zanzibar. September 1997 © Jorge Murteira. All rights reserved.

Zanzibar was a privileged hub of trade and cultural exchange between Africa and the East. The alternating monsoon winds enabled long-distance navigation using traditional vessels—the dhows—which arrived or departed from there to Oman, the Gulf region, and the Indian Subcontinent.

Zanzibar. September 1997 © Jorge Murteira. All rights reserved.

Zanzibar. September 1997 © Jorge Murteira. All rights reserved.

Zanzibar. September 1997 © Jorge Murteira. All rights reserved.

Zanzibar. September 1997 © Jorge Murteira. All rights reserved.

This continuous flow of people and goods established and solidified a shared cultural space, unified by a common religion—Islam—and a common language, Swahili, in which closely related ways of life developed, coexisting and extending along much of Africa’s eastern coast, from northern Mozambique to southern Somalia.

East coast of Zanzibar. September 1997 © Jorge Murteira. All rights reserved.

East coast of Zanzibar. September 1997 © Jorge Murteira. All rights reserved.

East coast of Zanzibar. September 1997 © Jorge Murteira. All rights reserved.

East coast of Zanzibar. September 1997 © Jorge Murteira. All rights reserved.

According to Professor Abdull Sheriff, Arab traders had been interacting with the coastal populations of Azania—believed to be the origin of the name Zanzibar—since at least the beginning of the Christian era. Zangubarm, the land of the Zanj (black people), was considered one of the marvels of the East.

Old Stone Town. Zanzibar. September 1997 © Jorge Murteira. All rights reserved.

Old Stone Town. Zanzibar. September 1997 © Jorge Murteira. All rights reserved.

Old Stone Town. Zanzibar. September 1997 © Jorge Murteira. All rights reserved.

Here, stories and myths emerged about a paradisiacal place—land of spices, elephant tusks, eastern princesses, and African slaves, among others. It was not only slaves, spices, and ivory that passed through here, but also missionaries, explorers, and conquerors.

Dhow sailing in front of Old Stone Town. Zanzibar. September 1997 © Jorge Murteira. All rights reserved.

In the 19th century, Zanzibar became the capital of an Afro-Arab dynasty, a center of diplomacy and international trade, as well as a place of learning for Muslim religious scholars and a gateway to Africa.

Old Dhow Harbour. Zanzibar. September 1997 © Jorge Murteira. All rights reserved.

It was, at the time, a cosmopolitan metropolis. In its ports, dhows equipped with lateen sails crossed paths with Western square-rigged ships. Sheriff notes that traders from New England sold their Marekani fabrics to Indian merchants in exchange for ivory.

The French from Marseille bartered with the Somalis for hides and sesame seeds. And entrepreneurs from Hamburg sent hundreds of tons of cowrie shells to West Africa, where they served as currency.


Old Dhow Harbour. Zanzibar. September 1997 © Jorge Murteira. All rights reserved.


Fishermen mending their nets. Old Stone Town. Zanzibar. September 1997 © Jorge Murteira. All rights reserved.

Fishermen mending their nets. Old Stone Town. Zanzibar. September 1997 © Jorge Murteira. All rights reserved.

anzibar. September 1997 © Jorge Murteira. All rights reserved.

The French from Marseille bartered with the Somalis for hides and sesame seeds. And entrepreneurs from Hamburg sent hundreds of tons of cowrie shells to West Africa, where they served as currency.

East coast of Zanzibar. September 1997 © Jorge Murteira. Todos os direitos reservados.

East coast of Zanzibar. September 1997 © Jorge Murteira. All rights reserved.

East coast of Zanzibar. September 1997 © Jorge Murteira. All rights reserved

Fishermen mending their nets. Old Stone Town. Zanzibar. September 1997 © Jorge Murteira. All rights reserved.

Fishermen mending their nets. Old Stone Town. Zanzibar. September 1997 © Jorge Murteira. All rights reserved.

Fishermen mending their nets. Old Stone Town. Zanzibar. September 1997 © Jorge Murteira. All rights reserved.

Fishermen mending their nets. Old Stone Town. Zanzibar. September 1997 © Jorge Murteira. All rights reserved.

For all these reasons, Zanzibar is marked by a blending of cultural shades and the coexistence of very diverse ways of life, making this island one of the most fascinating places I know. The Portuguese presence here left few traces and, perhaps, even fewer memories.